
The $8 draught-strip fix that actually seals
A safe fix for a door draught excluder. AI-drafted, human safety-reviewed, and honest about where it stops: if you reach the stop point below, that is a tradie job, not a you job.
You will need
- Foam self-adhesive draught seal tape (P-profile or D-profile) · Bunnings — look for "Raven" or "Exitex" brand, around $6–$8 for 5m
- Scissors or utility knife · Already at home, or a Stanley knife from Bunnings ~$5
- Isopropyl alcohol wipe or damp cloth · Woolies/Coles cleaning aisle, or cheap at Bunnings — essential for adhesion
- Tape measure · Measure the door stop rebate before buying — most interior doors need about 4m total
Step 1
Find where the cold air is sneaking in
Close the door on a windy day and slowly run your hand around all four edges — top, latch side, hinge side, and bottom. You'll feel the exact spots where air pushes through. This tells you whether you need strip seals on the door stop, a door-bottom sweep, or both.
Step 2
Choose the right profile for your gap
P-profile foam compresses well for small even gaps (under 3mm). D-profile is chunkier and suits older doors with uneven or larger gaps up to 6mm. If you can slide a 5-cent coin freely under a closed door, you also need a door-bottom sweep — sold separately at Bunnings for around $12.
Step 3
Clean the door stop rebate thoroughly
Wipe the surface where the tape will stick with isopropyl alcohol or a wrung-out damp cloth and let it dry completely. Any dust, paint flakes, or grease will make the adhesive fail within days — this step is the whole secret to it lasting.
Step 4
Apply the seal in one continuous run per side
Peel back about 10cm of backing, press the foam firmly into the door stop rebate (the timber strip the door closes against — not the door face itself), then slowly pull the backing away as you press along. Cut neatly at each corner with scissors rather than joining pieces, which creates leak points.
Step 5
Test and adjust the door swing
Close the door — you should feel a slight resistance as the foam compresses. If the door won't latch, the foam is too thick for that gap; swap to a thinner profile. If it still rattles, press a little harder along the strip to make sure the adhesive has fully bonded.
The stop point
If the door frame itself is visibly warped, the door has dropped so the hinge screws are pulling out, or you notice gaps in external walls or cracked plaster around the frame → stop, you need a carpenter or builder.
Mendy calls tradies for you. Your first booking is free, then $3.50 a booking.
Guide published 2026-08-14. AI-drafted, human safety-reviewed. If anything here seems off for your situation, stop and get a pro in.
By Alexander Lemos, founder of Mendy
Mendy is a Sydney-built app that scans a household problem, finds the safe fix, or calls local tradies for real quotes. ABN 15 974 187 541.